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Tradition
presents a picture of a visit by King Donal Mór O’Brien
with a retinue of bishops and chieftains to his place, where
there was already a monastery or hermitage following a Celtic
rule of life. The Cistercian Rule, having spread throughout
Europe with amazing rapidity had been introduced to Ireland
some forty years previously by St. Malachy, Archbishop of Armagh,
and now King Donal proposed to endow a Cistercian monastery
with large tracts of land here by the Suir in the country of
the O’Fogartys, his mother’s people.
The group of monks who founded (or ‘colonised’) this monastery
came from Monasteranenagh (Mainister, near Croom, Co. Limerick). Monasteranenagh
had been colonised from Mellifont and Mellifont from Clairveaux in
France, whose abbot, St. Bernard, was a friend of St. Malachy.The first
Cistercians, aiming at a hidden and silent life, drew up a simple Rule.
The monasteries were to be in remote places and the monks were to be
self-supporting through working the monastic lands themselves, hence
a sizeable estate was needed.
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The
Cistercian plan grouped the building in a square with the church
on the North side, an East range including the sacristy, chapter
house and parlour, the kitchen and refectory (dining hall)
on the South side, and in the West Range, the cellars and foodstores.
In the centre was the cloister garth, a grass-covered square
with a roofed-in walk around it. On the first floor in the
East Range was the dormitory for the choir monks while the
dormitory of the lay brothers was similarly provided in the
West range.
Life was austere and silent, devoted to prayer and work. Community
prayer was distributed over seven periods each day, beginning at 2
am, and consisted of the chanting of the Divine Office (psalms and
readings); there was also the Conventual (community) Mass. The abbey
church was bare and plain, with whitewashed walls which reflected light
coming mainly from the windows on the North side.
Click
to enlarge image of plan >>>>>
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| Building
for a New Era |
During
its first two centuries of its existence the Abbey had its
difficulties and at times its independence, and even survival,
seemed in doubt. There was promise of a happier era when, in
1414, a new patron extended to the Abbot and monks of Holy
Cross his special protection. This time the patron came from
the Norman settlers. He was James Butler, fourth Earl of Ormonde,
the most powerful nobleman in Ireland. During his long term
as Earl (1505-1452) he held the offices of Lord Lieutenant
or Justiciar at various periods. Significantly, it was at this
time that an ambitious scheme of rebuilding portions of the
Abbey commenced. The eastern arm of the church was rebuilt,
that is, the chancel, the two trancepts, the monks’ choir
and the massive tower. Of the earlier Cistercian church most
of the nave was retained but new windows, including the great
West window, were inserted into the old fabric. The
East and West Ranges were largely reconstructed, apart from
the lower parts of the walls. The cloister arcade was rebuilt,
the Abbot’s house was added and the infirmary and guest
house extensively remodelled.
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Suppression
of Monasteries Act
Hopes were blighted within a century of the great rebuilding. In England,
King Henry VIII set in train an investigation of the monasteries of
his realm and having established that they were too wealthy and were
either badly run or no longer served a useful purpose, he decreed that
all religious houses worth less than £200 a year were to be suppressed
and handed over to him. This was in 1536. The Dublin Parliament immediately
rushed through an Act of Suppression. Soon thirteen Irish religious
houses were gone, their property given to the Crown. They included
five Cistercian houses. In 1539 Henry decreed the closing of the bigger
monasteries.
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Reprieve
for Holy Cross Abbey
Initially Holy Cross escaped the fate of abbeys of similar size because
the monks had foreseen the likely course of events. In 1534 William
Dwyer, then Abbot, resigned his office to a married layman, Philip
Purcell. Holy Cross became a provostry rather than a Cistercian abbey.
Late in the 16th century a rudimentary Cistercian community still continued
in the Abbey. Pilgrims continued to come to venerate the relic of the
Cross. Irish Cistercians who had been trained in Spanish monasteries
returned to Ireland in the 17th century to live near to the former
monasteries and maintain a Cistercian presence. Continued persecution
and suppression led the Cistercians to move to private houses in Kilkenny
for 15 years with permission from Rome. When they returned, Holy Cross
was in ruins. By 1685 the unsettled condition of the country and the
shortage of vocations left the Abbey with one abbot and one monk. The
Abbey was plundered in 1690 during the Williamite wars. Abbot Coogan
remained on until his death in 1700. With the death of Fr Edmond Cormack
in 1735, the Cistercian link was broken. People began to bury their
dead within the Abbey about 1740.
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Part
of Ireland’s National Architectural Heritage
The Irish Church Act, 1896, which disestablished the church
of Ireland, empowered the commissioners of the Church of
Ireland to transfer all important churches and ecclesiastical
buildings into the care of the State, to be preserved
as national monuments and not to be used as places of
public worship. One hundred and thirty seven ancient
buildings, including Holy Cross Abbey, were listed for
transfer to the Commissioners of Public works. The technicalities
of ownership of buildings and sites were not investigated
at the time by any authority. The paramount consideration
was the saving of the nation’s architectural
heritage.
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The
vesting order was dated Saturday, 30th October, 1880. On that day,
Holy Cross Abbey became a national monument.
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A
New Dawn
In 1976 a new destiny opened up for Holy Cross. A move was initiated locally
to restore the Abbey church and bring it back into use for the local community
largely due to the foresight and vision of Fr. Willie Hayes (Curate of
Holycross/Ballycahill. Through his determination and persuasive power others
were duly convinced of the merits of such a considerable task. When Archbishop
Morris was approached he became similarily enthusiastic and the project
went from strength to dtrength. The move gathered support and the government
was approached to remove the hindrance contained in the Irish Church Act
in order to allow the National Monument to be used again as a place of
worship.
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The
following year the government announced its intention of introducing
the necessary legislation and on the 21st January 1969, at a commemorative
meeting in the Mansion House, Dáil Éireann began
the first stage of the Holy Cross Bill, 1969. The Bill entitled “An
Act to enable the Commissioners of Public Works in Ireland to restore
for ecclesiastical purposes Holy Cross Abbey in the County Tipperary” was
passed, without opposition, by the Dáil. The Act of 1869
was amended to make this an exception. Archaeological exactions
began in the Abbey shortly afterwards and restoration began in
1971. A celebration of the restoration was held in October 1975.
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The
Church
This
guide follows a particular route for a visit to the Abbey;
if you follow a different route you will need to locate
the features.
The
Processional door gives access to the South aisle of the
church. To get an overall view
of the plan of the church it is best to go right on entering
and then immediately left under the great trancept arch.
Stand facing the body of the church, your back for the time
being to the altar. You are in the centre of the church,
the ‘crossing,’ where nave (in front of you)
and trancepts (South to left, North to right) meet. The church
follows the cruciform pattern generally found in Cistercian
houses. Overhead is a delightfully groined roof with stone
ribs springing from points within the arches. The ribs fan
out and meet above where you see holes for bell ropes. The
vaulting here and over the trancepts and presbytery (at your
back) combine to make a pleasing study. The four arches support
the great Tower overhead, where the bells are placed.
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All
the stone work was done with chisel and mallet and the skilled
masons carved their personal marks on the pillars. On the
pillar to the North (right) an owl was carved.
Looking straight ahead you find first an area with a level floor (the choir),
then a dividing wall broken by an arch and steps leading to the sloping floor
of the nave which reaches back to the West gable containing the doorway (not
quite central) and the West window. The slope is due to the bedroc underneath.
The area West of the dividing arch was allocated to the lay-brothers, who did
not have the obligation of taking part of the choral services. Lay people also
occupied this part. For almost 200 years, when the Abbey was in ruin, the church
was used as a burial ground, there are some old pictures in the display case.
Turning around, you face East towards the fine window through which the morning
sun shines on the altar. On the South (right hand) wall is one of the special
features of the Abbey, the Sedilia.
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The
Sedilia
“The most sumptuous of all Cistercian fittings, indeed the finest piece
of church furnishing in medieval Ireland, are the sedilia in the chancel at Holy
Cross” (Stalley: Cistercian Monasteries of Ireland). The structure
provided seats for celebrant, deacon and subdeacon at Mass; sedilia (sedes,
seat) are found in most monastic churches. The structure is 17 feet high,
there is a richly carved base with leaf ornamentation and the structure is
surmounted by a roof with a canopy. Slender pillars separate the seats; on
one the figure of an angel has been badly displaced. An unusual feature of
the sedilia, one which has given rise to much discussion among students of
the abbey, is the set of five shields between the pointed arches. Reading
from left, the first is a plain cross, possibly the coat of arms of the Abbey.
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The
second and largest, carries the royal arms of England in a form
adopted after 1405.
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The
third shield carries the arms of the Ormonde Butlers, an acknowledgement
of the patronage of the earls of the period and the arms of the
fourth seem to be those of one of the Desmond Geraldines. The fifth
shield is blank; like the first shield it is only cut into the
face of the sedilia, not in bold relief like the other three; possibly
those shields were not part of the original design. The sedilia
has been popularly known as the “Tomb of the Good Woman’s
Son.” A tradition still surviving claims that this is the
burial place and monument of the English prince who was murdered
locally.
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Nowadays
the authenticated relic, acquired from St. Peter’s Basilica
in Rome in 1977, is displayed for veneration in the North transept.
Between the chapels in the South transept. on the way to the
sacristy , is a structure which has given rise to much discussion.
It is disappointing that so much uncertainty surrounds the
original relic of the Holy Rood which brought fame to the Abbey.
There are differe
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